Out and About

Haslemere lies within the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and has a fascinating history which invites you to delve into its past. Its medieval origins lie in iron smelting and the related industry of charcoal burning, as evidenced by Hammer Ponds at Shottermill.

The National Trust (one of whose founders lived in the town) owns much of what remains of the abundant forest and also nearby Black Down, Marley Common, and the Devil’s Punch Bowl at Hindhead.

Pavement Cafés

Haslemere’s many shops, restaurants and cafés add to the town’s vibrant atmosphere. The refurbished and long-renowned museum has many fascinating exhibitions, while Haslemere Hall is the centre of cultural life with a wide variety of shows, opera productions, plays, films and other events. It is no surprise that Haslemere is a popular place in which to live and work.

Haslemere is easily accessible from most major airports and ferry ports. It has good road links to the south coast, London and beyond. Haslemere is on the main railway line from London Waterloo to Portsmouth.

Haslemere, with its wide range of good accommodation, makes a delightful and convenient centre for visiting the many attractions and places of interest which are within easy reach.

St Bartholomew's

St. Bartholomew’s Parish Church dates from the 13th century. This mellow stone building with its tower was mostly built in 1871 in an early English style on the site of an earlier church. Details on page 27 of this Guide.

The War Memorial, situated prominently in Haslemere High Street, is a listed monument. It is dedicated to 109 local heroes (108 men and one woman), 62 of whom gave their lives during World War I and 47 during World War II. The full story of their heroism is told on the website that volunteers have developed at www.haslemere.com/warmemorial.

The memorial is unusual in that, for World War 1, it records the name of the casualty and place of death. It is made of brittle sandstone and was restored in the winter of 2006-7, returning the cross to its original height.

Haslemere Hall

Haslemere Hall was built in 1913 by Lewis Barclay Day and designed by Annesley Brownrigg. The Hall, with its convivial atmosphere, is used by local people and visitors to the town as a cinema with the latest films, a theatre for Opera South, Haslemere Players, Haslemere Thespians, dramatic societies and for musical events. It is the home of the Haslemere Music and Arts Festival which has developed from the original Festival of Early Music initiated by the Dolmetsch family of musicians and instrument makers.

Haslemere Educational Museum, founded in 1888, provides educational opportunities for local people and visitors. It contains wonderful collections featuring geology, botany, zoology, archaeology and social history. Please see page 20 for more information.

Black Down

Black Down, to the south-east of Haslemere, is a 500 acre common owned by The National Trust and rises to almost 300 metres above sea level. It stretches to Petworth with the beautiful views and walks being renowned. Black Down House, built in 1607 with panelled rooms and mullioned windows, was used by Oliver Cromwell as his headquarters during the Civil War.

Shottermill Ponds

Shottermill is an old settlement along the valley of the River Wey which rises on Black Down. It takes its name from an old building, Shotter Mill, which was burned down and replaced by Oliver’s Mill. Rose Cottage, a former tannery, and Shottermill Ponds with their abundant supply of ducks and geese are also a delight.

Shulbrede Priory

Lynchmere, Hammer and Camelsdale
The parish of Lynchmere includes the villages of Hammer and Camelsdale. It is the most northern parish in the district of Chichester, bordered on the north by the River Wey (which divides West Sussex from Surrey). Lynchmere began as a Saxon settlement with evidence of these origins in the church of St. Peter. During the reign of King John, Shulbrede Priory was founded in 1190 and was dedicated to St. Mary, the Holy Cross and St. Eustace. It is now a private house which can be visited on the May and August bank holidays. Hammer played an important role in the early iron smelting industry and takes its name from the ‘Hammer’ Pond. A community developed around the brickworks in the 19th century when Camelsdale also blossomed.

Grayswood

Grayswood is a picturesque village two miles north east of Haslemere on the A286, a former turnpike road. The parish was created in 1902 from parts of Haslemere, Chiddingfold, Witley and Thursley. Thought of as a “working village” by those who live there, Grayswood boasts many amenities, including a school, pub, church, village hall and a village green with many cricket teams. All Saints Church was completed in 1902 to the design of Axel Haig, a leading figure in the Victorian Gothic revival. Haig lived in Grayswood from 1891 until he died in 1921 and the Gothic style of All Saints reflects that of the many medieval churches found in his Swedish homeland. His gravestone, in front of the lower tower, is in the shape of an ancient Viking rune stone.

The Grayswood Cricket Club is a great success and the lovingly nurtured pitches can be found in the centre of the village green. In the 1990s the green could have been mistaken for an unkempt pasture, but it has since been transformed into one of the county’s most successful cricket venues.

Within strolling distance of the green is The Wheatsheaf, a splendid Real Ale pub with an excellent restaurant. In the summer it is all but buried beneath a mountain of flowers.

Across the road is the Grayswood Village Club, formerly the Working Man’s Club and before that the village school. It also doubles up as the cricket club rendezvous and has a collection of sepia photographs of Victorian Grayswood. The present Church of England Infant School, opened in 1905, is now tucked into the corner of the village green, almost hidden by two glorious oak trees.

The village hall is a relatively new one, thanks in part to Lottery funding. It is a splendid building, designed by a local architect, and has many uses, including as a crèche and venue for parties.

Hindhead lies to the north of Haslemere and developed along the A3 London to Portsmouth road at its crossing with the A287 Farnham to Midhurst road. It was the haunt of highwaymen who found rich pickings from those travelling by stage coach from London to Portsmouth.

The area is a major attraction for walkers and sightseers who are able to enjoy the peace of the heath and woodland. Visitors to Gibbet Hill can enjoy magnificent views over the Surrey and Sussex Weald and towards London from the second highest vantage point in Surrey.

Volunteering holidays can be taken by arrangement with The National Trust for their Hindhead Youth Hostel, also Hunter Base Camp in Haslemere. They also have a café at the Devil’s Punch Bowl.

The character and attractiveness of Hindhead will be enhanced when the current A3 is redirected through the Hindhead Tunnel, scheduled for completion in 2011.

Devil's Punch Bowl

The Devil’s Punch Bowl is a large heather-filled basin formed naturally by the action of many springs where the Hythe Beds of Greensand meet Atherfield Clay. It is designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) because it contains Lowland Heathland, a m a n m a d e environment, which is rarer than the A m a z o n i a n Rainforest. It dates from the Bronze Age and is the intermediate stage in an ecological succession from bare ground to woodland.

The National Trust is removing birch and pine from this woodland to facilitate grazing and encourage the heathland to return, thus conserving wildlife. There are rare bird species such as the Dartford Warbler, Nightjar and Woodlark. Also seen are the Silver Studded Blue Butterfly, Sand Lizard and Adder.

The valley of the Devil’s Punch Bowl contains several small 18thcentury cottages once occupied by people known as ‘broom squires’ who made besom brooms from heather and birch – many for use at Windsor Castle and Hampton Court.

Hindhead Commons

Hindhead Commons were acquired by the Haslemere Commons and Footpath Preservation Society in 1905 from the Lord of the Manor of Witley. In 1906 the land was transferred to The National Trust. There are over 570 hectares (1400 acres) of attractive heath and woodland. In the late 19th century Hindhead Commons was described as ‘the fashionable capital of the beautiful Surrey Highlands’ and ‘Little Switzerland’. Local folklore links the area with the Devil. Gibbet Hill and the Sailor’s Stone recount a murder in 1786 when highwaymen regularly attacked coaches travelling between London and Portsmouth.

The Sailor's Stone

The Sailor’s story. On Hindhead Commons there is a vivid reminder of the events of 24th September 1786 when an unknown sailor, travelling the old Portsmouth Road, was murdered by three assailants. Two new information boards relate the story and decode the enigmatic Celtic cross. The boards were unveiled by the Haslemere Initiative on the 221st anniversary of the sailor’s death. Sponsors of the work included the Three Counties Association of National Trust Members and the Ordnance Survey. A remnant of the gibbet may be seen in the Haslemere Educational Museum.

Celtic Cross, Gibbet Hill

The Gibbet and Celtic Cross. Criminals were hanged on the gibbet and their tarred bodies left to swing in clanking irons until they rotted. This area had a reputation for being haunted so, in 1851, Sir William Erle of Bramshott Grange had a granite Celtic cross erected near the site to try to dispel the fears of local residents. Around the base of the cross are four Latin inscriptions.

Beacon Hill has a number of shops and restaurants. The village grew rapidly from nothing to become a residential area in the 1880s. This thriving community has no known ancient history. The parish church of St. Alban’s was constructed in 1906 to designs by Coleridge. There are many places in this country with the name Beacon Hill. The firing of beacons kept on prominent hill tops was an integral part of the British defence system for many years. The last chain of beacons was lit on 2nd June 1977 to commemorate the Queen’s Silver Jubilee.

Grayshott

Grayshott lies south-west of Hindhead and alongside the A3 London to Portsmouth road. It has twice been voted the best village in Hampshire and also the best in the South of England for Business in the Community. The village takes great pride in its success at blending the modern and the traditional, the popular and the eclectic, as well as the residential and business communities. Grayshott has a number of fine specialist shops and restaurants.

The renowned Grayshott Pottery attracts many visitors who can watch the art of pottery-making. The Grayshott name is famous worldwide for its stoneware and porcelain – a complete picture is available on www.grayshott.com.

The modern day village of Grayshott was originally open wasteland of pine, heather and gorse, so it is easy to see why it developed so late. The high land near Hindhead was known for its remoteness, poorness of soil and its reputation for lawlessness. The name of Grayshott can be found as far back as the 12th century and, along with other nearby villages, was considered to have special health qualities.

A public house appeared in Grayshott before either a permanent church or a village hall. The Fox and Pelican was formally opened on 23rd August 1899 by Mrs Randall Davidson, wife of the Bishop of Winchester.

The pub is outdated by Grayshott Village School which was opened on 4th September 1871 with seven children attending, a figure which has grown to over 200.

Thursley Nature Reserve

Thursley is a small Surrey village which lies west of the A3, between Milford and Hindhead. The name came from the god Thor and was probably a site where he was worshipped. Thursley is known for its Common, a National Nature Reserve, which is a surviving area of lowland peat bog providing a rich habitat for dragonflies, damselflies, the endangered Woodlark and Dartford Warbler. Thursley Military Camp (renamed Tweedsmuir) housed British, American and Canadian forces during World War II and was bombed in 1942 – it later housed Polish refugees. Nearby Houndown Camp was used by the British Royal Marines.

St. Michael & All Angels Church is mentioned in the Domesday Book but the earliest features of the existing building date from 1100. The famous murdered sailor’s tomb is among several 18th and 19th century monuments in the churchyard.

Thursley Cricket Club was established in 1860 with teams playing every weekend during the season on the cricket ground.

Thursley Village Hall, built in the 19th century as the village school, has been completely refurbished for uses ranging from committee meetings to wedding receptions.

The Three Horseshoes pub dates from the 17th century and caters for everyone.

Chiddingfold

Chiddingfold is an attractive village steeped in history, having been famous throughout Europe for the glass made between the 13th and 17th centuries. This glass adorns the windows of Westminster Abbey and St. George’s Chapel, Windsor. There is a local butcher established for more than 290 years and the Swan Inn attracts people from far and wide.

Fernhurst is an attractive village overlooked by Black Down. It has a lovely village green surrounded by beautiful, old buildings. Formally known as ‘Farnhurst’, the village’s history originates from the hunter gatherers who settled there during the Stone Age. The Romans and Saxons built more buildings in the area, including the Saxon church at nearby Selham.

Liphook grew from the hamlet of Bramshott and was known during the 15th century as Chiltlee or Chiltley. This small hamlet in the Middle Ages, expanded to become an important stop-off point for the stage coaches travelling between London and Portsmouth. In 1916 Flora Thompson moved to Liphook and became famous as the author of “Lark Rise to Candleford”.

Hollycombe, Liphook

During both the First and Second World Wars, Liphook was used as a base for many Canadian troops and consequently a number of m o d e r n roads have C a n a d i a n place names. An avenue of 209 Maple trees was planted along the A3, with a single tree for every two servicemen buried in the nearby Bramshott and Brookwood cemeteries. Liphook is the home of Hollycombe, a delightful collection of steam-powered attractions.

Frensham Great Pond

Frensham Common and Frensham Ponds
This area of 1000 acres of attractive countryside lies to the north-west of Haslemere on both sides of the A287 and is of historic and ecological interest. The common contains heathland, mixed woodland and two large ponds known as Frensham Great and Little Ponds which were dug in the Middle Ages to provide fish for the Bishop of Winchester’s estate. There are four Bronze Age burial mounds on top of the ridge between the two ponds. There are miles of footpaths and bridleways with a number of marked walks and cycle trails. Sailing and angling are available for club members. The site supports many birds and all six native British reptiles. It is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in recognition of being an internationally important heathland habitat.

Tilford

Tilford is a picturesque village lying on the River Wey between the A287 and B3001. Nearby is the great Cistercian Abbey of Waverley founded in 1128. Two medieval bridges span the branches of the river and are listed as ancient monuments. Several substantial farm houses date from the 16th century. Tilford House was built in 1727 and its chapel in 1776. The village green has long associations with cricket. It is the heart of village life with its pub and nearby Rural Life Centre. The Tilford Institute, built in 1894 to Sir Edwin Lutyens’ design is a focus for social and sports activities.

Lurgashall dates back to Saxon times. It means literally ‘aula’ (hall) of Leotegar who came to Wealden forest in AD 495. Few of these historical roots remain, but St. Laurence’s Church retains some of its original Saxon structure alongside more modern features such as the Millennium Window over the West door, depicting various scenes of village life both past and present.

Originally a thriving village, Lurgashall had all but disappeared by the end of the 11th century and therefore has no mention in the Domesday Book. The area known as Park Farm originates from a Norman manor house built there in 1100, in time to rejuvenate the area.

The popular Noah’s Ark pub is thought to originate from an older construction, that of the village inn built at the side of the Green in 1557. It is believed the unusual name comes from a pond in front of the door which patrons crossed to enter, making them look like animals boarding the ark.

Cowdray Ruins, Midhurst

Lodsworth is a parish, south-east of Haslemere, famous for the production of cider from its apple and cherry orchards, and for making bricks from the Weald Clay. St. Peter’s Church, built around 1230, possesses the oldest silver chalice in the Midhurst Deanery, the Lodsworth Cup, dating from 1567. Lodsworth was famous for its quern stones quarry when Lodsworth rock was used to grind corn to flour. The local public house, The Hollist Arms, dates from the 15th century when it was known as the Crown Mants, subsequently Poyntz Arms (the general court baron was W.S. Poyntz), until Hasler Hollist, a local dignitary, took over in 1838.

Midhurst is a market town eight miles south of Haslemere on the A286 with good bus links. The cathedral city of Chichester is less than 15 miles beyond. Midhurst has many interesting features including one of the oldest pubs in Sussex, The Swan Inn, Market Square. Cowdray House, dating from Tudor times, had remained a ruin from 1793, following a savage fire, until 2007 when it reopened again. Part of the splendour of Cowdray House lies in the symmetry of the courtyard plan but the Great Hall range is still medieval in character with large Gothic windows and the entrance porch at the lower end.
For full details please see www.cowdray.org.uk
and www.walledgardencowdray.co.uk.
Beautiful rural countryside and wooded hills surround the town.

Kirdford. Dating from the Bronze Age and the largest of the West Sussex parishes, Kirdford covers an area of 14 square miles. Although many industries have flourished over the years, Kirdford is probably best known for its fruit growing and glass working. The latter of these prosperous industries dates from the medieval period and was prevalent for over 200 years. We know that glass was made in the woods around the parish as fragments have been found and used to glaze the lancet window in the north wall of St. John the Baptist Church.

Fruit growing has always been a popular industry in Kirdford and apples in particular have been grown on a large scale for hundreds of years. Even to the present day, over 20 varieties of apples and pears are grown on fruit farms in the area and cider was produced on a large scale from the 13th through to the 19th century.

Kirdford boasts two picturesque public houses, both with excellent reputations. The Half Moon pub, found opposite the church, was originally a row of cottages once used as workshops for craftsmen and dating from 1640. The Foresters Arms can be found just around the corner and dates from the 17th century.

A scheme of 20 eco-friendly homes including low energy lighting and recycling facilities has been built in Bourn Meadows. It is a modern version of the village green that has long been an essential part of the rural British landscape.

Petworth Park

Petworth an old market town, is an ideal place to stroll through narrow streets, alleyways and pretty cobbled squares, with fine shops and restaurants. There are antiques centres and individual antiques shops. The National Trust owns Petworth House and the fabulous grounds of Petworth Park. Visitors can view the magnificent art collection which includes works of Turner, Van Dyck, Gainsborough, Bosch, Reynolds and William Blake. The 700 acre park was landscaped by ‘Capability’ Brown and is open to the public all year round. The house is the home of Lord and Lady Egremont.